Getting Started

Start with our four-step transition guide: prepare, pot, transition, and maintain. It walks through root preparation, top-watering during the transition, and the signs that your plant is ready for reservoir watering.

Remove as much as you gently can. Your roots do not need to be spotless: a little soil left behind is okay. Soaking stubborn soil for 10–15 minutes can help loosen it before rinsing.

Yes—some yellowing or leaf loss is normal during the transition. As your plant adjusts and develops new roots, it may shed older leaves while its root system catches up. This doesn’t automatically mean something is wrong!

If the roots are firm and you’re seeing new root or leaf growth, those are reassuring signs. Give your plant time to settle in. If the roots are mushy or have a strong unpleasant smell, take a closer look for rot.

For the Monk method, use an inner pot, a separate water reservoir, and a wick. A removable inner pot makes flushing easier, and a visible reservoir helps you check when water is running low. Keep reservoir water below the inner pot once your plant is established.

It can make everyday watering simpler after your plant is established. The transition needs closer attention, and ongoing care still includes checking water, feeding, inspecting roots, and periodically flushing the Pon.

For an established plant in a Monk wick setup, keep the water below the bottom of the inner pot. The wick carries moisture into the Pon. Newly transferred plants follow a different routine: use the transition guide before switching to reservoir watering.

For most plants, there’s no need to wait until the reservoir is empty. Top it up when it’s convenient for you—that’s one of the benefits of self-watering! Just keep the water below the bottom of the inner pot.

Check regularly so the reservoir doesn’t stay empty. Plants that prefer a drier period, such as many succulents, may need a different routine.

Choose a fertilizer labeled for hydroponic or semi-hydroponic use and follow its directions for dilution. Our transition guide pauses fertilizer for the first two weeks, starts it in week three, and includes feeding with each watering once established. The exact dose depends on your fertilizer.

Tap water is usually a perfectly good place to start—there’s no need to make watering complicated. If your plants are growing happily, keep doing what’s working!

If you notice persistent growth problems or heavy mineral buildup, your water quality may be worth investigating. Some plants are more sensitive to it than others.

You don’t need to make pH testing part of every watering. If your plants are growing well with your current water and fertilizer routine, keep it simple.

If growth stalls or problems keep coming back despite checking light, watering, and feeding, testing pH can help you investigate what’s going on.

Flushing means running fresh water through the inner pot and letting it drain away to remove accumulated salts. Our maintenance guide recommends flushing every 1–2 months, running plain water through the inner pot 2–3 times.

Yes, but a properly maintained semi-hydro setup can help reduce the risk by giving roots a balance of moisture and airflow. Keep the reservoir water below the inner pot so the wick delivers moisture without submerging the root zone.

Firm roots and healthy new growth are reassuring signs! If you notice mushy roots or a strong unpleasant smell, check for rot so you can address it early.

A little algae is usually nothing to worry about! It grows when light reaches moisture and nutrients, so it’s common in clear planters. A light green coating generally won’t harm an otherwise healthy plant.

If you prefer a cleaner look, simply clean the reservoir periodically. Heavy buildup is worth cleaning out, especially if it interferes with the wick or makes checking your water level difficult.

A strong unpleasant smell is a good reason to check inside your pot. Look for mushy roots, fallen plant material, or buildup in the reservoir. If the roots are firm and healthy, cleaning the reservoir and replacing the water may be all that’s needed.

If you find soft, mushy roots along with the smell, your plant may have root rot and need some extra care.

Healthy roots are firm and white to tan. Color alone is not enough: mushiness, slime, and a strong odor are more useful warning signs. Use the clear inner pot for a quick visual check before disturbing the plant.